Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: grubs, Japanese beetles
It was only a matter of time really. We didn’t really think they would skip a year (or maybe 13/17 like cicadas?). This week, Japanese beetle sightings have been reported all about town. Expect to see them soon in your yard, if you haven’t already; and expect the numbers to increase.
What to Do. Traps can be great IF you place them away from what they are attacking. The pheromones in the traps are very effective and will attract beetles from around your neighborhood. Since beetles are notoriously poor pilots, they may not make it into the trap immediately. Thus, if you put the trap right next to your prize roses, expect to see more beetles on the roses, not less. If you decide to spray, do so in the early morning or early evening, not in the heat of the day. You will need to repeat spray every 4-7 days (depending on the product you choose). There are many organic methods of control available… stop in the nursery and Don can help you select the best product for your needs.
The adult beetles will be around for about three or four weeks. During this time, they will mate and lay eggs (when they aren’t eating all of your favorite plants). In mid-August, the eggs will hatch into grubs, which will overwinter underground.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: beetle traps, grubs, Japanese beetles
Adult Japanese Beetles have yet to emerge, but are likely to start munching on your favorite trees and shrubs in early- to mid-June. They are currently underground, either in the larval (grub) stage feeding on your grass roots or in the pupal stage preparing to morph into the adult stage.
We don’t yet know how bad the beetle outbreak will be this year, as populations can vary quite a bit from year to year. So, be on the lookout and be prepared for battle, if need be. Even if you have been treating your lawn for grubs, your neighbors might not have done the same, so you should not be surprised to see the beetles in your yard. (After all, the adults are quite mobile and don’t respect the fence-line!)
Japanese beetle traps have been popular in years past, but many people feel that using beetle traps attracts more beetles to your yard than you would have otherwise (the pheromones used in the traps can be detected by beetles near and FAR). In this case, the best approach to beetle eradication may be the simplest: pick them by hand. In the morning and evening, the beetles are less active and easy to pluck off plants. Just drop the beetles into a jar of soapy water and they are no longer a problem. Pesticide sprays, including some plant-derived compounds, may help to reduce the population, but you generally need to apply the pesticide several times. Always read and follow all instructions for pesticides.
Whichever method you attempt, act early. The sooner you eliminate the pests, the fewer eggs they will lay. You will help to reduce the number of grubs in your yard, and in turn, next year’s beetle population.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, houseplants, trees, Uncategorized | Tags: citrus, dwarf trees, lemon, lime, orange
Is the idea of picking fresh lemons, limes, and oranges from your own tree tempting you? It is actually possible, and relatively easy… even in our climate. Your biggest challenge, if you even call it that, will be finding space for your tree indoors for the winter. Read on for some growing tips and you will soon be picking oranges from your deck!
Science has led to dwarf citrus trees that produce fruit at young ages. The dwarf, or semi-dwarf, growing habit makes it possible to keep these trees in containers (and makes moving it indoors easier). When potting your tree, use potting mix (NOT dirt from your garden), re-potting with fresh mix every one or two years.
As mentioned above, citrus trees need to be moved indoors for the winter. They cannot tolerate frost. At all. However, they will love our hot, humid summers, and would be happiest outdoors in warmer months. Citrus trees need at least eight hours of light per day, whether it is natural or artificial. When placing your tree outdoors, choose a location that is semi-protected from wind.
Proper soil moisture is extremely important for citrus trees. The soil should be consistently moist, even just on the dry side of moist. Never, never keep the soil soggy. Before watering, check the soil moisture about an inch below the surface.
Fertilization is also crucial, as citrus trees rely heavily on nitrogen. Find a fertilizer that is at least a 2-1-1 (N-P-K) ratio and follow the package instructions.
Pruning can be done year-round and will encourage growth and improve fruit production. Be advised that extreme pruning will harm fruit yield temporarily. To shape and fill out your tree without affecting yield, simply pinch back the tips of new growth. Cut off suckers (the shoots that appear below the graft scar) as soon as you see them. They will not produce your desired fruit but will use a lot of your tree’s resources.
Most citrus trees are self-pollinating, so you can sit back and wait for your fruit to appear. Enjoy!
Filed under: Pests, trees | Tags: bag worm, defoliator, eastern tent caterpillar, pyrethrin, trees
“They’re baaaaack.” Have you noticed the bag worms yet? Likely, most people never notice the bag worms themselves, but the bags are hard to miss. Eastern tent caterpillars, commonly known as bag worms, have already hatched from their eggs. The larvae (caterpillars) spin their silk into a web nest (or “bag” or “tent) in the branches of trees. As you might have noticed, these nests house hundreds of larvae, protecting them from predators. The larvae are not restricted to the nest, however. They spend much of their time eating the tree’s leaves, only returning to the safety of the nest when not feeding. During their early development, the larvae feed during the day and return to the nest at night. Later in their development, the larvae reverse this, feeding at night and retreating to the nest during the day.
Are these bag worms a problem? They can be. They voraciously feed on leaves and can defoliate large sections of tree quickly. The bag nests are also an eyesore.
If you want to treat these pests, it will be easiest and most efficient when done early in the season (now!). Also, treatment is best done at dusk, when you will have the best chance of finding the larvae in the nest. Here are two options:
- If you have few nests that are accessible, and you aren’t squeamish, you can manually remove the nest (we suggest using a stick or the handle of a tool) and handpick the larvae, placing them in soapy water.
- Use a pyrethrin spray, a botanically-derived insecticide (safe for use near people and pets). Break open the nest with a stick, then spray with pyrethrin. The spray works very quickly on the larvae.
Good luck!
Filed under: Disease, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees, Uncategorized | Tags: mulch
Perhaps volcanoes are on the brain, but have you noticed the mulch volcanoes popping up around town? What is a mulch volcano, you ask? It occurs when mulch is piled around and against the trunk of a tree (or the stem of a shrub, perennial, etc.).
So, beyond looking a bit odd, what is wrong with this mountain of mulch? When mulch touches a tree trunk or plant stem, moisture gets trapped against the trunk and creates an environment ideal for disease and insect pests. Ultimately, this could lead to plant death. Trunks and stems need air circulation around them, so when mulching, take care to leave a few inches free around the trunk.
When properly applied, mulch improves the health of your trees and plants. Mulch helps to regulate moisture and keep weeds away. Additionally, as the mulch breaks down, its nutrients become incorporated into the soil.
A final note: it is a little too early to put out mulch. Wait for the soil to warm up a bit more. If you apply mulch while the soil is still cool, the mulch acts as an insulating layer and keeps the soil temperature cool for a longer time. It isn’t the end of the world if you apply early, but it may delay the growth of many annuals and perennials.
We’ve been asked a lot lately about pruning and feeding of trees and shrubs for fall. What I tell everyone about pruning is: If it blooms in the spring, leave it alone until after it finishes blooming. You can feel free to trim broadleaf evergreens lightly now along with yews and junipers, the key is LIGHTLY — no more than a few inches or there could be winter damage.
You don’t want to feed trees or shrubs now because it can take a month or more for the fertilizer to get into the system of the plant. Late October is not a great time for plants to be putting on new growth. With trees, the best time to feed is in the dead of winter. The freezing and thawing of the ground will work the fertilizer into the ground and in March, when the trees start their new growth, the nutrition is already waiting. Tree trimming is best done when the trees are dormant.
A note: the Botanical Garden is ending the pot recycling program on September 30, 2009. If you still have pots to recycle, please bring them in before next Wednesday. We want to thank all of you for bringing in your pots, but we ask that you not bring any after September 30 since we have no place to store them until next April when the program resumes.
