Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, Uncategorized | Tags: blossom end rot, crabgrass, cucumber beetle, nutgrass, squash vine borer
Our lawns, vegetables, and flowers are showing signs of stress from the heat and lack of rain (though, we have had drier summers). If you are ambitious enough to get out and water early –good for you! your plants thank you– you probably still come back in the house hot and sweaty. On top of the weather, your lawns and gardens are probably feeling pressure from the many pests this time of year: weeds, bugs, birds, and animals. Here is a quick run-down of the current trouble-makers:
Weeds — Weeds of all sorts are thriving in these conditions. The better they do, the more moisture and nutrients are sapped from neighboring plants and grasses. In your lawns, nutgrass and crabgrass are really big issues. (See our previous post for more information on nutgrass). Crabgrass is a usual nuisance and this summer is no different. Crabgrass grows low to the ground, and radiates out from its center point. You will often see crabgrass growing in disturbed areas. Note for fall seeding: a thick, healthy lawn is your best defense against crabgrass (and many other weeds). With the temperatures in the 90s, there is little you can do to treat the weeds currently. Sprays will be largely ineffective at such high temperatures.
Insects — Striped cucumber beetles and squash vine borers are in many gardens this time of year. The cucumber beetles may be striped or spotted, depending on species, and feed on many cucurbits (squash, melons, cucumbers, etc.). They can be controlled with several sprays, including organic options. The squash vine borers are more troublesome, both in damage and in control. Borer larva enter the stems, where they eat the plant tissue as they develop. You may not be aware of their presence until your squash suddenly wilts and dies. Sprays are ineffective, as the larva are inside the stem. Prevention is your best tool: insecticides must be sprayed at the base of the plant before the larva enter the stem.
Birds and mammals — Birds, rabbits, and squirrels are always a bit of a problem in the garden, but they get much more bold when there is little water to be found. Our garden produce is full of water and becomes a convenient source for thirsty animals. Fencing may keep the animals out, but you may find it easier to provide a bowl of water or fill a birdbath for the birds. (Of course, remember to change the water frequently to prevent mosquito larva from hatching.)
Physiological problem — If your tomatoes have blossom end rot, chances are you already know it. As the name implies, a brown spot or lesion emerges on the blossom end of the fruit, making it appear that the tomato is rotting. This occurs when the plant is not obtaining enough calcium. Calcium uptake is interrupted when the plant experiences extreme fluctuation in soil moisture, so even a plant in calcium-rich soil may develop blossom end rot if it experiences watering problems. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers. To avoid this condition, maintain regular watering practices: never letting the soil dry out, but not keeping the soil soaking wet either. Mulch will help slow the evaporation of soil moisture.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: grubs, Japanese beetles
It was only a matter of time really. We didn’t really think they would skip a year (or maybe 13/17 like cicadas?). This week, Japanese beetle sightings have been reported all about town. Expect to see them soon in your yard, if you haven’t already; and expect the numbers to increase.
What to Do. Traps can be great IF you place them away from what they are attacking. The pheromones in the traps are very effective and will attract beetles from around your neighborhood. Since beetles are notoriously poor pilots, they may not make it into the trap immediately. Thus, if you put the trap right next to your prize roses, expect to see more beetles on the roses, not less. If you decide to spray, do so in the early morning or early evening, not in the heat of the day. You will need to repeat spray every 4-7 days (depending on the product you choose). There are many organic methods of control available… stop in the nursery and Don can help you select the best product for your needs.
The adult beetles will be around for about three or four weeks. During this time, they will mate and lay eggs (when they aren’t eating all of your favorite plants). In mid-August, the eggs will hatch into grubs, which will overwinter underground.
Filed under: Disease, Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests | Tags: cabbage worm, canker worm, early blight, lawn fungi, sawfly, slugs, snails, thrips, tomato hornworm
Here’s what we’re seeing around our area right now:
Tomato hornworm
Caterpillars are all over. Cabbage worms, canker worms, and even tomato hornworms have been rearing their ugly heads in the last week. There are lots of organic controls for these garden-wreckers. You won’t find most caterpillars unless you are out at night (as, if they are out in the day, the caterpillars become bird food).
Slugs and snails are making their presence known. Again, unless you look for them at night, you probably won’t find them. Putting out trays of beer is good way to find out if slugs are your problem.
The thrips have moved on, but their place is being taken by sawfly larve that do pretty much the same thing (make the leaf look like swiss cheese).
Early blight has shown up on tomatoes and other vegetables.
Lawn fungi of all types have become a big problem in the last couple of weeks. With all the late afternoon and evening thundershowers and high night temperatures, the grass is a breeding ground for diseases.
We haven’t seen any Japanese beetles yet.
Over the next month or so, there are a few problems that may emerge in your lawn and garden. If the problems are locally severe, we’ll post more specific information at that time. Meanwhile, here’s what to watch for:
Japanese Beetles — see our earlier post
Bag worms on evergreen trees — see our earlier post for general bag worm information
Cancer worms (inch worms) – The storms blow them out of trees and they start eating whatever they land on. Signs of damage: leaves are eaten from the outside-in. Since they are nocturnal, look for these trouble-makers on the underside of leaves and stems during the day.
Slugs and snails — You’ll find these in wet areas. They love to eat hostas and flowers. Signs of damage: holes in the middle of leaves. Again, they are nocturnal, but you’ll probably be able to see their silvery trails during the day.
Early blight on tomatoes — Signs of infection: spots on lower leaves, yellowing, and wilting.
Botrytis (gray mold) — Botrytis can infect many different plants, frequently fruits and flowers. Signs of infection: leaf spots, flower buds not opening.
Powdery mildew — Signs of infection: gray and white residue on leaves.
Lawn fungus — warm, humid nights and nighttime rain can cause a number of diseases of the lawn. If you have had problems with lawn fungi before, now is the time to treat… don’t wait until you see spots.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: beetle traps, grubs, Japanese beetles
Adult Japanese Beetles have yet to emerge, but are likely to start munching on your favorite trees and shrubs in early- to mid-June. They are currently underground, either in the larval (grub) stage feeding on your grass roots or in the pupal stage preparing to morph into the adult stage.
We don’t yet know how bad the beetle outbreak will be this year, as populations can vary quite a bit from year to year. So, be on the lookout and be prepared for battle, if need be. Even if you have been treating your lawn for grubs, your neighbors might not have done the same, so you should not be surprised to see the beetles in your yard. (After all, the adults are quite mobile and don’t respect the fence-line!)
Japanese beetle traps have been popular in years past, but many people feel that using beetle traps attracts more beetles to your yard than you would have otherwise (the pheromones used in the traps can be detected by beetles near and FAR). In this case, the best approach to beetle eradication may be the simplest: pick them by hand. In the morning and evening, the beetles are less active and easy to pluck off plants. Just drop the beetles into a jar of soapy water and they are no longer a problem. Pesticide sprays, including some plant-derived compounds, may help to reduce the population, but you generally need to apply the pesticide several times. Always read and follow all instructions for pesticides.
Whichever method you attempt, act early. The sooner you eliminate the pests, the fewer eggs they will lay. You will help to reduce the number of grubs in your yard, and in turn, next year’s beetle population.
Filed under: Pests, trees | Tags: bag worm, defoliator, eastern tent caterpillar, pyrethrin, trees
“They’re baaaaack.” Have you noticed the bag worms yet? Likely, most people never notice the bag worms themselves, but the bags are hard to miss. Eastern tent caterpillars, commonly known as bag worms, have already hatched from their eggs. The larvae (caterpillars) spin their silk into a web nest (or “bag” or “tent) in the branches of trees. As you might have noticed, these nests house hundreds of larvae, protecting them from predators. The larvae are not restricted to the nest, however. They spend much of their time eating the tree’s leaves, only returning to the safety of the nest when not feeding. During their early development, the larvae feed during the day and return to the nest at night. Later in their development, the larvae reverse this, feeding at night and retreating to the nest during the day.
Are these bag worms a problem? They can be. They voraciously feed on leaves and can defoliate large sections of tree quickly. The bag nests are also an eyesore.
If you want to treat these pests, it will be easiest and most efficient when done early in the season (now!). Also, treatment is best done at dusk, when you will have the best chance of finding the larvae in the nest. Here are two options:
- If you have few nests that are accessible, and you aren’t squeamish, you can manually remove the nest (we suggest using a stick or the handle of a tool) and handpick the larvae, placing them in soapy water.
- Use a pyrethrin spray, a botanically-derived insecticide (safe for use near people and pets). Break open the nest with a stick, then spray with pyrethrin. The spray works very quickly on the larvae.
Good luck!
Filed under: Disease, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees, Uncategorized | Tags: mulch
Perhaps volcanoes are on the brain, but have you noticed the mulch volcanoes popping up around town? What is a mulch volcano, you ask? It occurs when mulch is piled around and against the trunk of a tree (or the stem of a shrub, perennial, etc.).
So, beyond looking a bit odd, what is wrong with this mountain of mulch? When mulch touches a tree trunk or plant stem, moisture gets trapped against the trunk and creates an environment ideal for disease and insect pests. Ultimately, this could lead to plant death. Trunks and stems need air circulation around them, so when mulching, take care to leave a few inches free around the trunk.
When properly applied, mulch improves the health of your trees and plants. Mulch helps to regulate moisture and keep weeds away. Additionally, as the mulch breaks down, its nutrients become incorporated into the soil.
A final note: it is a little too early to put out mulch. Wait for the soil to warm up a bit more. If you apply mulch while the soil is still cool, the mulch acts as an insulating layer and keeps the soil temperature cool for a longer time. It isn’t the end of the world if you apply early, but it may delay the growth of many annuals and perennials.
Grubs: Small creatures that strikes fear in the hearts of lawn enthusiasts. Alternative definition: the larva of beetles.
And yes, grubs really can cause significant damage to lawns by feeding on the roots of grasses. Additional damage can be caused by birds and mammals tearing up the lawn to feed on the grubs. But before treating your lawn for grubs, make sure you really have a problem. Here are some signs of grubs:
- Birds are pecking in a grid pattern over the same area
- There is an area where the grass grows more slowly than the rest of your yard.
- You can pull up your sod like a carpet.
If you see any of these signs, dig into the soil to confirm the presence of grubs. Examine a 12″ x 12″ area. One or two grubs is not a problem. Five to six grubs is not a problem, but approaching a problem. Ten to 12 grubs in a 1 sq. ft. area is a problem.
Should your lawn have a grub problem, treat it with Milky Spore. Milky Spore is a specific bacteria that infects the grubs, kills them, and infests the soil to kill future grubs. Three to four treatments over two years will protect for 10-15 years. The soil should not freeze after treatment for at least one week. Bonus: because Milky Spore is a specific bacteria, it is safe for use around children and pets, and it does not harm beneficial soil insects.
Filed under: Disease, Garden, Perennials, Pests, Uncategorized | Tags: black spot, botrytis, Disease, fungus, Perennials, roses, sulphur
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Hmmmm… looks like we have a theme going with our spring posts! This is the time of year to prevent problems with your roses and herbaceous perennials. Two key fungal diseases, botrytis and black spot, become active again in spring. The disease spores overwinter on the surface of the soil. While emerging through the soil, the plants pick up spores. The wet spring weather encourages the spores to germinate and the fungus to grow. Once established on plant tissue, the fungus can be spread to other leaves or plants by wind or rain (from the splashing). If we do have a cloudy, wet spring, these diseases can spread alarmingly fast!
Fortunately, you don’t have to do much to stop this cycle. Sprinkle dusting sulphur over the soil surface now to help prevent problems later. Bonus: Dusting sulphur will also help reduce some populations of aphids and spider mites. To further help keep black spot from your roses, remove the old mulch from around your roses. Remove infected leaves (you will know from the black (or very dark brown) spots — no surprise there!) as you see them and do not add them to your compost pile. A cleaner garden is a healthier garden.
Filed under: houseplants, Lawn, Pests | Tags: houseplants, pest treatment, Pests, winter preparation
With the cooler nights this week we’re all thinking about bring our house plants in from outside. Here are a number of tips to help make the transition go a little smoother:
1. Inspect the plants and soil for unwelcome visitors. Give your plants a good shower before they come inside, make sure that you wash the underside of the leaves because that’s where the insects hide and lay their eggs which will hatch once they’re in your house. It’s a good idea to spray your plants with either Insecticidal Soap or a Pyrethrin spray as well. If you have a plant that you know has tough insects like mites or scale the Hi Yield Systemic Insect Granules will do a really good job.
2. Move the plant to where it’s going to stay for the winter, there will be a transition and leaves will fall, but continuing to move the plant around the house will make it worse. Find a good home and leave it there.
3. Don’t overwater, the plants indoors will need less water than outside. Water thoroughly when you water, then let the plant dry for a week to ten days (or maybe longer if it’s a dark location).
4. Remember that the sun is generating about a tenth the light in the winter than it generates in the summer. Day length decreases also from almost 16 hours in summer to 9 or 10 in late December.
5. Don’t forget that your house plants still need food over the winter; we still eat, they need to also. Feed them about half as much as you do during the summer.
Hopefully this will help give you happier house plants this winter.
One more thing: even though it was said on the Saturday morning garden show that it’s too late to sow grass seed, THAT’S DEAD WRONG, 70 degree days and 50 degree nights are perfect for germinating grass seed. Creeping and Chewings Fescues as well as Bluegrass are slower to germinate but all cool season grasses will still germinate as long as you keep them moist.
Happy Gardening
