Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, Uncategorized | Tags: blossom end rot, crabgrass, cucumber beetle, nutgrass, squash vine borer
Our lawns, vegetables, and flowers are showing signs of stress from the heat and lack of rain (though, we have had drier summers). If you are ambitious enough to get out and water early –good for you! your plants thank you– you probably still come back in the house hot and sweaty. On top of the weather, your lawns and gardens are probably feeling pressure from the many pests this time of year: weeds, bugs, birds, and animals. Here is a quick run-down of the current trouble-makers:
Weeds — Weeds of all sorts are thriving in these conditions. The better they do, the more moisture and nutrients are sapped from neighboring plants and grasses. In your lawns, nutgrass and crabgrass are really big issues. (See our previous post for more information on nutgrass). Crabgrass is a usual nuisance and this summer is no different. Crabgrass grows low to the ground, and radiates out from its center point. You will often see crabgrass growing in disturbed areas. Note for fall seeding: a thick, healthy lawn is your best defense against crabgrass (and many other weeds). With the temperatures in the 90s, there is little you can do to treat the weeds currently. Sprays will be largely ineffective at such high temperatures.
Insects — Striped cucumber beetles and squash vine borers are in many gardens this time of year. The cucumber beetles may be striped or spotted, depending on species, and feed on many cucurbits (squash, melons, cucumbers, etc.). They can be controlled with several sprays, including organic options. The squash vine borers are more troublesome, both in damage and in control. Borer larva enter the stems, where they eat the plant tissue as they develop. You may not be aware of their presence until your squash suddenly wilts and dies. Sprays are ineffective, as the larva are inside the stem. Prevention is your best tool: insecticides must be sprayed at the base of the plant before the larva enter the stem.
Birds and mammals — Birds, rabbits, and squirrels are always a bit of a problem in the garden, but they get much more bold when there is little water to be found. Our garden produce is full of water and becomes a convenient source for thirsty animals. Fencing may keep the animals out, but you may find it easier to provide a bowl of water or fill a birdbath for the birds. (Of course, remember to change the water frequently to prevent mosquito larva from hatching.)
Physiological problem — If your tomatoes have blossom end rot, chances are you already know it. As the name implies, a brown spot or lesion emerges on the blossom end of the fruit, making it appear that the tomato is rotting. This occurs when the plant is not obtaining enough calcium. Calcium uptake is interrupted when the plant experiences extreme fluctuation in soil moisture, so even a plant in calcium-rich soil may develop blossom end rot if it experiences watering problems. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers. To avoid this condition, maintain regular watering practices: never letting the soil dry out, but not keeping the soil soaking wet either. Mulch will help slow the evaporation of soil moisture.
Filed under: Disease, Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Perennials, shrubs | Tags: fungus prevention, Zoysia
Zoysia summer care: Zoysia loves hot weather — the hotter the better — and you want to feed it now that the days are hot. High nitrogen fertilizers work best, but stay away from Ammonium nitrate and other nitrate fertilizers because they can burn very easily. Mow your Zoysia around 2 inches and mow regularly. Zoysia can take it dry, but for the best lawn water about an inch every other week. You need a sharp blade to get a good clean cut.
Fungus amoungus: with the recent rain and the warm night temperatures, we are seeing all sorts of fungus diseases popping-up. There are some cultural things to do before you reach for the fungicides. First, don’t water anything at night (lawns, flowers, vegetables, or shrubs). Water early in the morning before the sun is too high in the sky. Water the ground and not the plants, as moisture on the leaves can lead to fungus problems. Water thoroughly when watering, a deep soaking rather than a lot of little waterings daily. Remove damaged leaves from the plants and beds to reduce the spread of the disease. When you do use a fungicide, make sure it’s for the disease you’re trying to stop, follow the directions, spray in the cool part of the day, and make sure that you spray the ground around the plants so that spores cannot be splashed up on the leaves.
Good luck and try to stay cool!
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: grubs, Japanese beetles
It was only a matter of time really. We didn’t really think they would skip a year (or maybe 13/17 like cicadas?). This week, Japanese beetle sightings have been reported all about town. Expect to see them soon in your yard, if you haven’t already; and expect the numbers to increase.
What to Do. Traps can be great IF you place them away from what they are attacking. The pheromones in the traps are very effective and will attract beetles from around your neighborhood. Since beetles are notoriously poor pilots, they may not make it into the trap immediately. Thus, if you put the trap right next to your prize roses, expect to see more beetles on the roses, not less. If you decide to spray, do so in the early morning or early evening, not in the heat of the day. You will need to repeat spray every 4-7 days (depending on the product you choose). There are many organic methods of control available… stop in the nursery and Don can help you select the best product for your needs.
The adult beetles will be around for about three or four weeks. During this time, they will mate and lay eggs (when they aren’t eating all of your favorite plants). In mid-August, the eggs will hatch into grubs, which will overwinter underground.
Filed under: Disease, Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests | Tags: cabbage worm, canker worm, early blight, lawn fungi, sawfly, slugs, snails, thrips, tomato hornworm
Here’s what we’re seeing around our area right now:
Tomato hornworm
Caterpillars are all over. Cabbage worms, canker worms, and even tomato hornworms have been rearing their ugly heads in the last week. There are lots of organic controls for these garden-wreckers. You won’t find most caterpillars unless you are out at night (as, if they are out in the day, the caterpillars become bird food).
Slugs and snails are making their presence known. Again, unless you look for them at night, you probably won’t find them. Putting out trays of beer is good way to find out if slugs are your problem.
The thrips have moved on, but their place is being taken by sawfly larve that do pretty much the same thing (make the leaf look like swiss cheese).
Early blight has shown up on tomatoes and other vegetables.
Lawn fungi of all types have become a big problem in the last couple of weeks. With all the late afternoon and evening thundershowers and high night temperatures, the grass is a breeding ground for diseases.
We haven’t seen any Japanese beetles yet.
Over the next month or so, there are a few problems that may emerge in your lawn and garden. If the problems are locally severe, we’ll post more specific information at that time. Meanwhile, here’s what to watch for:
Japanese Beetles — see our earlier post
Bag worms on evergreen trees — see our earlier post for general bag worm information
Cancer worms (inch worms) – The storms blow them out of trees and they start eating whatever they land on. Signs of damage: leaves are eaten from the outside-in. Since they are nocturnal, look for these trouble-makers on the underside of leaves and stems during the day.
Slugs and snails — You’ll find these in wet areas. They love to eat hostas and flowers. Signs of damage: holes in the middle of leaves. Again, they are nocturnal, but you’ll probably be able to see their silvery trails during the day.
Early blight on tomatoes — Signs of infection: spots on lower leaves, yellowing, and wilting.
Botrytis (gray mold) — Botrytis can infect many different plants, frequently fruits and flowers. Signs of infection: leaf spots, flower buds not opening.
Powdery mildew — Signs of infection: gray and white residue on leaves.
Lawn fungus — warm, humid nights and nighttime rain can cause a number of diseases of the lawn. If you have had problems with lawn fungi before, now is the time to treat… don’t wait until you see spots.
Ahhh, the gateway herb. No, not that kind of herb… we’re talking culinary herbs here. Basil is our most-requested herb and often the first herb people start growing. So what’s all the fuss? First, people love to eat basil (think pesto, marinara sauce, and whole leaves on pizza). They want to have it available just outside the back door. Second, basil is very, VERY easy to grow. In fact, the problem often becomes how to eat it quickly enough.
Let’s start with the easy-to-grow part. Really, basil is most finicky about cold temperatures, and we’ve already passed that point. You can safely plant basil in your garden or containers at any time now. Plant your basil in a very sunny spot in well-drained soil (or potting mix, if planting in a container). Simply make sure it receives water regularly and your basil will be happy. Regular pruning (taking leaves for dinner counts!) will keep the plant more compact and produce new leaves. If your plant begins to produce flowers, pinch them off immediately. You want all the energy put into the delicious leaves! If you have more than you can use, consider setting some aside for later. You can dry the leaves, freeze the leaves, or make pesto to freeze; shelf life, respectively, one year, nine months, and six months. Expect dried or frozen leaves to darken in color.
There are over 100 varieties of basil out there! The most popular varieties are sweet basils, including lettuce-leaf and Genovese. These are great for pesto! Other sought-after varieties are bush/globe basil (great for indoor containers), Thai basil, and the many “flavored” basils. Have you tried lemon basil, lime basil, cinnamon basil, or licorice basil? Would you? There are also varieties that double as an ornamental plant. Purple ruffles basil is the most common of these. Really, there is a whole world of basil to explore — have fun experimenting!
Here is a tried-and-true pesto recipe for you to try. It makes about one cup, but easily doubles if you want to make extra for freezing.
- 2 c. basil leaves, packed
- 1/3 c. pine nuts or walnuts
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
- 1/2 c. freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
- salt and pepper to taste
- Combine basil and nuts in food processor, pulse several times. Add garlic and pulse several more times.
- While processor is running, slowly add EVOO.
- Add cheese and pulse until blended. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: beetle traps, grubs, Japanese beetles
Adult Japanese Beetles have yet to emerge, but are likely to start munching on your favorite trees and shrubs in early- to mid-June. They are currently underground, either in the larval (grub) stage feeding on your grass roots or in the pupal stage preparing to morph into the adult stage.
We don’t yet know how bad the beetle outbreak will be this year, as populations can vary quite a bit from year to year. So, be on the lookout and be prepared for battle, if need be. Even if you have been treating your lawn for grubs, your neighbors might not have done the same, so you should not be surprised to see the beetles in your yard. (After all, the adults are quite mobile and don’t respect the fence-line!)
Japanese beetle traps have been popular in years past, but many people feel that using beetle traps attracts more beetles to your yard than you would have otherwise (the pheromones used in the traps can be detected by beetles near and FAR). In this case, the best approach to beetle eradication may be the simplest: pick them by hand. In the morning and evening, the beetles are less active and easy to pluck off plants. Just drop the beetles into a jar of soapy water and they are no longer a problem. Pesticide sprays, including some plant-derived compounds, may help to reduce the population, but you generally need to apply the pesticide several times. Always read and follow all instructions for pesticides.
Whichever method you attempt, act early. The sooner you eliminate the pests, the fewer eggs they will lay. You will help to reduce the number of grubs in your yard, and in turn, next year’s beetle population.
Filed under: Disease, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees, Uncategorized | Tags: mulch
Perhaps volcanoes are on the brain, but have you noticed the mulch volcanoes popping up around town? What is a mulch volcano, you ask? It occurs when mulch is piled around and against the trunk of a tree (or the stem of a shrub, perennial, etc.).
So, beyond looking a bit odd, what is wrong with this mountain of mulch? When mulch touches a tree trunk or plant stem, moisture gets trapped against the trunk and creates an environment ideal for disease and insect pests. Ultimately, this could lead to plant death. Trunks and stems need air circulation around them, so when mulching, take care to leave a few inches free around the trunk.
When properly applied, mulch improves the health of your trees and plants. Mulch helps to regulate moisture and keep weeds away. Additionally, as the mulch breaks down, its nutrients become incorporated into the soil.
A final note: it is a little too early to put out mulch. Wait for the soil to warm up a bit more. If you apply mulch while the soil is still cool, the mulch acts as an insulating layer and keeps the soil temperature cool for a longer time. It isn’t the end of the world if you apply early, but it may delay the growth of many annuals and perennials.
Filed under: Disease, Garden, Perennials, Pests, Uncategorized | Tags: black spot, botrytis, Disease, fungus, Perennials, roses, sulphur
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Hmmmm… looks like we have a theme going with our spring posts! This is the time of year to prevent problems with your roses and herbaceous perennials. Two key fungal diseases, botrytis and black spot, become active again in spring. The disease spores overwinter on the surface of the soil. While emerging through the soil, the plants pick up spores. The wet spring weather encourages the spores to germinate and the fungus to grow. Once established on plant tissue, the fungus can be spread to other leaves or plants by wind or rain (from the splashing). If we do have a cloudy, wet spring, these diseases can spread alarmingly fast!
Fortunately, you don’t have to do much to stop this cycle. Sprinkle dusting sulphur over the soil surface now to help prevent problems later. Bonus: Dusting sulphur will also help reduce some populations of aphids and spider mites. To further help keep black spot from your roses, remove the old mulch from around your roses. Remove infected leaves (you will know from the black (or very dark brown) spots — no surprise there!) as you see them and do not add them to your compost pile. A cleaner garden is a healthier garden.
Here it is late January 2010 and we’ve had just about all the different weather conditions that you can have in winter: sub-zero temperatures, snow, freezing rain, rain, fog and hopefully sunshine before too long. I was out in Colorado last week and they wanted snow. The streets were clear and you could walk on the sidewalks in regular shoes, no need for snow boots!!! So the weather is strange everywhere, but that’s what makes winter interesting and challenging for our plants.
While we are waiting for spring to start, January and February are the perfect months to start to plan your spring garden projects. We are here Monday – Saturday at this time of year to help with your planning, answer questions, and get you ready to start spring at the right time for your best success with your gardening effort. If you wait until the first nice weekend in late March or early April and come in to plan your spring garden we will be able to help, but not as much as we can now.
Our new 2010 garden seeds are in with more coming soon. So if you don’t mind getting out in the cold, we have an excellent selection and if we don’t have exactly the variety that you are looking for we can usually get them in a week or less. We can also tell you about which varieties do best in St Louis. We’ll also help you with your timing: if you start plants inside too early, you can have all sorts of problems with them producing in the summer.
Feel free to stop in anytime, we may put you to work unloading a truck or moving a display, but we’ll be glad to give you as much help as we can planning your spring gardening projects.
