Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, Uncategorized | Tags: blossom end rot, crabgrass, cucumber beetle, nutgrass, squash vine borer
Our lawns, vegetables, and flowers are showing signs of stress from the heat and lack of rain (though, we have had drier summers). If you are ambitious enough to get out and water early –good for you! your plants thank you– you probably still come back in the house hot and sweaty. On top of the weather, your lawns and gardens are probably feeling pressure from the many pests this time of year: weeds, bugs, birds, and animals. Here is a quick run-down of the current trouble-makers:
Weeds — Weeds of all sorts are thriving in these conditions. The better they do, the more moisture and nutrients are sapped from neighboring plants and grasses. In your lawns, nutgrass and crabgrass are really big issues. (See our previous post for more information on nutgrass). Crabgrass is a usual nuisance and this summer is no different. Crabgrass grows low to the ground, and radiates out from its center point. You will often see crabgrass growing in disturbed areas. Note for fall seeding: a thick, healthy lawn is your best defense against crabgrass (and many other weeds). With the temperatures in the 90s, there is little you can do to treat the weeds currently. Sprays will be largely ineffective at such high temperatures.
Insects — Striped cucumber beetles and squash vine borers are in many gardens this time of year. The cucumber beetles may be striped or spotted, depending on species, and feed on many cucurbits (squash, melons, cucumbers, etc.). They can be controlled with several sprays, including organic options. The squash vine borers are more troublesome, both in damage and in control. Borer larva enter the stems, where they eat the plant tissue as they develop. You may not be aware of their presence until your squash suddenly wilts and dies. Sprays are ineffective, as the larva are inside the stem. Prevention is your best tool: insecticides must be sprayed at the base of the plant before the larva enter the stem.
Birds and mammals — Birds, rabbits, and squirrels are always a bit of a problem in the garden, but they get much more bold when there is little water to be found. Our garden produce is full of water and becomes a convenient source for thirsty animals. Fencing may keep the animals out, but you may find it easier to provide a bowl of water or fill a birdbath for the birds. (Of course, remember to change the water frequently to prevent mosquito larva from hatching.)
Physiological problem — If your tomatoes have blossom end rot, chances are you already know it. As the name implies, a brown spot or lesion emerges on the blossom end of the fruit, making it appear that the tomato is rotting. This occurs when the plant is not obtaining enough calcium. Calcium uptake is interrupted when the plant experiences extreme fluctuation in soil moisture, so even a plant in calcium-rich soil may develop blossom end rot if it experiences watering problems. Blossom end rot can also affect peppers. To avoid this condition, maintain regular watering practices: never letting the soil dry out, but not keeping the soil soaking wet either. Mulch will help slow the evaporation of soil moisture.
The hot, hot summer weather may be unpleasant for most of us, but there are some things that thrive in such conditions… like Japanese beetles, and other pests and weeds. One such troublesome weed is nutsedge (a.k.a, nutgrass), which is aggressively growing in lawns all over our area. Don’t feel too badly if it is in your lawn, too, we’ve heard whispers that the Botanical Garden has some in their grass. You are not alone!
What exactly is nutsedge? Well, for starters, it is actually a perennial sedge, not a grass or a broadleaf weed. 
It has a triangular stem (you can feel this by rolling it between your fingers). It produces three, yellowish-green, grass-like leaves and feathery flower heads. The seed head will be spiky and look like a burr. However, most reproduction actually occurs via underground rhizomes, forming tubers that are called “nutlets.” This active underground network makes hand-weeding a nearly futile activity.
What do I do with nutsedge? Because nutsedge can spread so rapidly, it can become a real problem for your lawn. As we just mentioned, pulling nutsedge by hand is not your best option, as nutlets will remain belowground and produce new plants. You will need to pull nutsedge from that area many times throughout the year to eliminate your weed problem. Spraying a general herbicide will not work at all, since this is a sedge (most herbicides target broadleaf herbs and/or grassy herbs). You will need to apply an herbicide specifically meant for nutsedge. As you should when using any chemical in your yard and lawn, follow all directions on the packaging.
Fortunately, we have just received our new shipment of nutsedge herbicide. (There was such a run on it this last week that we temporarily sold out!) It is straightforward to use, and more importantly, effective. Good luck!
Filed under: Disease, Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Perennials, shrubs | Tags: fungus prevention, Zoysia
Zoysia summer care: Zoysia loves hot weather — the hotter the better — and you want to feed it now that the days are hot. High nitrogen fertilizers work best, but stay away from Ammonium nitrate and other nitrate fertilizers because they can burn very easily. Mow your Zoysia around 2 inches and mow regularly. Zoysia can take it dry, but for the best lawn water about an inch every other week. You need a sharp blade to get a good clean cut.
Fungus amoungus: with the recent rain and the warm night temperatures, we are seeing all sorts of fungus diseases popping-up. There are some cultural things to do before you reach for the fungicides. First, don’t water anything at night (lawns, flowers, vegetables, or shrubs). Water early in the morning before the sun is too high in the sky. Water the ground and not the plants, as moisture on the leaves can lead to fungus problems. Water thoroughly when watering, a deep soaking rather than a lot of little waterings daily. Remove damaged leaves from the plants and beds to reduce the spread of the disease. When you do use a fungicide, make sure it’s for the disease you’re trying to stop, follow the directions, spray in the cool part of the day, and make sure that you spray the ground around the plants so that spores cannot be splashed up on the leaves.
Good luck and try to stay cool!
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Perennials, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: grubs, Japanese beetles
It was only a matter of time really. We didn’t really think they would skip a year (or maybe 13/17 like cicadas?). This week, Japanese beetle sightings have been reported all about town. Expect to see them soon in your yard, if you haven’t already; and expect the numbers to increase.
What to Do. Traps can be great IF you place them away from what they are attacking. The pheromones in the traps are very effective and will attract beetles from around your neighborhood. Since beetles are notoriously poor pilots, they may not make it into the trap immediately. Thus, if you put the trap right next to your prize roses, expect to see more beetles on the roses, not less. If you decide to spray, do so in the early morning or early evening, not in the heat of the day. You will need to repeat spray every 4-7 days (depending on the product you choose). There are many organic methods of control available… stop in the nursery and Don can help you select the best product for your needs.
The adult beetles will be around for about three or four weeks. During this time, they will mate and lay eggs (when they aren’t eating all of your favorite plants). In mid-August, the eggs will hatch into grubs, which will overwinter underground.
Filed under: Disease, Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests | Tags: cabbage worm, canker worm, early blight, lawn fungi, sawfly, slugs, snails, thrips, tomato hornworm
Here’s what we’re seeing around our area right now:
Tomato hornworm
Caterpillars are all over. Cabbage worms, canker worms, and even tomato hornworms have been rearing their ugly heads in the last week. There are lots of organic controls for these garden-wreckers. You won’t find most caterpillars unless you are out at night (as, if they are out in the day, the caterpillars become bird food).
Slugs and snails are making their presence known. Again, unless you look for them at night, you probably won’t find them. Putting out trays of beer is good way to find out if slugs are your problem.
The thrips have moved on, but their place is being taken by sawfly larve that do pretty much the same thing (make the leaf look like swiss cheese).
Early blight has shown up on tomatoes and other vegetables.
Lawn fungi of all types have become a big problem in the last couple of weeks. With all the late afternoon and evening thundershowers and high night temperatures, the grass is a breeding ground for diseases.
We haven’t seen any Japanese beetles yet.
Over the next month or so, there are a few problems that may emerge in your lawn and garden. If the problems are locally severe, we’ll post more specific information at that time. Meanwhile, here’s what to watch for:
Japanese Beetles — see our earlier post
Bag worms on evergreen trees — see our earlier post for general bag worm information
Cancer worms (inch worms) – The storms blow them out of trees and they start eating whatever they land on. Signs of damage: leaves are eaten from the outside-in. Since they are nocturnal, look for these trouble-makers on the underside of leaves and stems during the day.
Slugs and snails — You’ll find these in wet areas. They love to eat hostas and flowers. Signs of damage: holes in the middle of leaves. Again, they are nocturnal, but you’ll probably be able to see their silvery trails during the day.
Early blight on tomatoes — Signs of infection: spots on lower leaves, yellowing, and wilting.
Botrytis (gray mold) — Botrytis can infect many different plants, frequently fruits and flowers. Signs of infection: leaf spots, flower buds not opening.
Powdery mildew — Signs of infection: gray and white residue on leaves.
Lawn fungus — warm, humid nights and nighttime rain can cause a number of diseases of the lawn. If you have had problems with lawn fungi before, now is the time to treat… don’t wait until you see spots.
Ahhh, the gateway herb. No, not that kind of herb… we’re talking culinary herbs here. Basil is our most-requested herb and often the first herb people start growing. So what’s all the fuss? First, people love to eat basil (think pesto, marinara sauce, and whole leaves on pizza). They want to have it available just outside the back door. Second, basil is very, VERY easy to grow. In fact, the problem often becomes how to eat it quickly enough.
Let’s start with the easy-to-grow part. Really, basil is most finicky about cold temperatures, and we’ve already passed that point. You can safely plant basil in your garden or containers at any time now. Plant your basil in a very sunny spot in well-drained soil (or potting mix, if planting in a container). Simply make sure it receives water regularly and your basil will be happy. Regular pruning (taking leaves for dinner counts!) will keep the plant more compact and produce new leaves. If your plant begins to produce flowers, pinch them off immediately. You want all the energy put into the delicious leaves! If you have more than you can use, consider setting some aside for later. You can dry the leaves, freeze the leaves, or make pesto to freeze; shelf life, respectively, one year, nine months, and six months. Expect dried or frozen leaves to darken in color.
There are over 100 varieties of basil out there! The most popular varieties are sweet basils, including lettuce-leaf and Genovese. These are great for pesto! Other sought-after varieties are bush/globe basil (great for indoor containers), Thai basil, and the many “flavored” basils. Have you tried lemon basil, lime basil, cinnamon basil, or licorice basil? Would you? There are also varieties that double as an ornamental plant. Purple ruffles basil is the most common of these. Really, there is a whole world of basil to explore — have fun experimenting!
Here is a tried-and-true pesto recipe for you to try. It makes about one cup, but easily doubles if you want to make extra for freezing.
- 2 c. basil leaves, packed
- 1/3 c. pine nuts or walnuts
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
- 1/2 c. freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
- salt and pepper to taste
- Combine basil and nuts in food processor, pulse several times. Add garlic and pulse several more times.
- While processor is running, slowly add EVOO.
- Add cheese and pulse until blended. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, Garden, Lawn, Pests, shrubs, trees | Tags: beetle traps, grubs, Japanese beetles
Adult Japanese Beetles have yet to emerge, but are likely to start munching on your favorite trees and shrubs in early- to mid-June. They are currently underground, either in the larval (grub) stage feeding on your grass roots or in the pupal stage preparing to morph into the adult stage.
We don’t yet know how bad the beetle outbreak will be this year, as populations can vary quite a bit from year to year. So, be on the lookout and be prepared for battle, if need be. Even if you have been treating your lawn for grubs, your neighbors might not have done the same, so you should not be surprised to see the beetles in your yard. (After all, the adults are quite mobile and don’t respect the fence-line!)
Japanese beetle traps have been popular in years past, but many people feel that using beetle traps attracts more beetles to your yard than you would have otherwise (the pheromones used in the traps can be detected by beetles near and FAR). In this case, the best approach to beetle eradication may be the simplest: pick them by hand. In the morning and evening, the beetles are less active and easy to pluck off plants. Just drop the beetles into a jar of soapy water and they are no longer a problem. Pesticide sprays, including some plant-derived compounds, may help to reduce the population, but you generally need to apply the pesticide several times. Always read and follow all instructions for pesticides.
Whichever method you attempt, act early. The sooner you eliminate the pests, the fewer eggs they will lay. You will help to reduce the number of grubs in your yard, and in turn, next year’s beetle population.
Filed under: Fruits/Vegetables, houseplants, trees, Uncategorized | Tags: citrus, dwarf trees, lemon, lime, orange
Is the idea of picking fresh lemons, limes, and oranges from your own tree tempting you? It is actually possible, and relatively easy… even in our climate. Your biggest challenge, if you even call it that, will be finding space for your tree indoors for the winter. Read on for some growing tips and you will soon be picking oranges from your deck!
Science has led to dwarf citrus trees that produce fruit at young ages. The dwarf, or semi-dwarf, growing habit makes it possible to keep these trees in containers (and makes moving it indoors easier). When potting your tree, use potting mix (NOT dirt from your garden), re-potting with fresh mix every one or two years.
As mentioned above, citrus trees need to be moved indoors for the winter. They cannot tolerate frost. At all. However, they will love our hot, humid summers, and would be happiest outdoors in warmer months. Citrus trees need at least eight hours of light per day, whether it is natural or artificial. When placing your tree outdoors, choose a location that is semi-protected from wind.
Proper soil moisture is extremely important for citrus trees. The soil should be consistently moist, even just on the dry side of moist. Never, never keep the soil soggy. Before watering, check the soil moisture about an inch below the surface.
Fertilization is also crucial, as citrus trees rely heavily on nitrogen. Find a fertilizer that is at least a 2-1-1 (N-P-K) ratio and follow the package instructions.
Pruning can be done year-round and will encourage growth and improve fruit production. Be advised that extreme pruning will harm fruit yield temporarily. To shape and fill out your tree without affecting yield, simply pinch back the tips of new growth. Cut off suckers (the shoots that appear below the graft scar) as soon as you see them. They will not produce your desired fruit but will use a lot of your tree’s resources.
Most citrus trees are self-pollinating, so you can sit back and wait for your fruit to appear. Enjoy!
Filed under: Lawn, shrubs, Uncategorized | Tags: azalea, blueberry, fertilizing, holly, Holly-tone, rhododendron, Zoysia
Now that the Azaleas have finished blooming, you can fertilize them. Repeat the fertilization every 30 days until early August. Stopping the fertilizing then will give the plants plenty of time to slow growth and prepare for winter. Because Azaleas like an acidic soil, you want to choose a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants. Espoma’s Holly-tone is an excellent organic fertilizer. You can also use it on hollies (bet you guessed that one already), Rhododendrons, and blueberries.
It is also time to fertilize your Zoysia lawn with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. You can repeat the fertilizing in about 6-8 weeks. A perk of having a Zoysia lawn: you need less fertilizer than you would use on other grasses. Generally, you shouldn’t need to apply more than two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet annually.
